Unpolished Watches

Unpolished Watches

Attention is the easy part.

A microbrand refunds every pre-order, Adam Golden on who’s propping up the indie market, and a familiar Vacheron that photographs better in Malibu.

Tony Traina's avatar
Tony Traina
Oct 24, 2026
∙ Paid

I picked up Gary Shteyngart’s 2010 novel Super Sad True Love Story after Gary was on Ezra Klein, who said he “keeps telling people this is the dystopian novel we’re living in.” Gary is of course a well-known watch hoarder, too, and I thought this quote from the book at least tangentially applies to watches, which is largely a nostalgia-driven hobby:

“Remember this, develop a sense of nostalgia for something, or you’ll never figure out what’s important.”

Today’s newsletter is 1,510 words, a 6-min read.

Unpolished is a newsletter for enthusiasts. Get all the good stuff behind the paywall for $8/mo ($80/yr):

🔨 FALL AUCTION CALENDAR

Oct 28: Sotheby’s Singapore Edit, Singapore

Oct 31: Dr. Crott, Mannheim

Oct 31–Nov 1: Monaco Legend, Monaco

Nov 7-8: Phillips Geneva XXIV, Geneva

Nov 7-8: Antiquorum, Geneva

Nov 8-9: Sotheby’s Important Watches, Geneva

Nov 9: Christie’s Rare Watches, Geneva

Nov 18: Bonhams London Watches, London

Nov 20: Heritage Auctions Timepieces Signature, Dallas

Nov 21-22: Phillips Hong Kong XXIII, Hong Kong

Nov 25-26: Christie’s Important Watches, Hong Kong

Dec 4: Christie’s Important Watches, New York

Dec 5: Watches of Knightsbridge, London

Dec 5-6: Phillips New York XV, New York

Dec 7: Sotheby’s Important Watches, New York

Dec 8: Bonhams New York Fine Watches, New York

Dec 14: Finarte Fine Watches, Milan

This week’s New York Watch Week recap drove as many subscriptions as my Watches & Wonders recap—impressive juice for a weekend most big brands sit out:

‘Uncomplicated’ Americans: Notes from New York Watch Week

‘Uncomplicated’ Americans: Notes from New York Watch Week

Tony Traina
·
Oct 19
Read full story

UNPOLISHED PODCAST

Making The First Documentary on Vintage Watches (w/ Adam Golden and Chris Gary)

On this week’s pod: Adam Golden of Menta Watches and Chris Gary, director of the new documentary, Chasing Time.

The documentary follows Adam across Geneva, Tokyo, New York, and Miami. Chris talks about what he finds fascinating about young watchmakers taking inspiration from vintage Breguet or Patek Philippe instead of Rolex. I sat down for an interview for the documentary in 2024, so we also chat about the process of making the film.

Before that, Adam gives us a market update: whether the indie boom is sustainable, why one headline auction result doesn’t set the market, and more. He added this spicy tidbit:

“I’ve heard it many times that there are a lot of institutional buyers entering the fold—hedge funds who are buying into physical assets, art people who are not buying art anymore; they’re moving into watches. They’re putting their money into these pieces that are now propping up the market. I can’t say it with 100% truth….”

More about Chasing Time here.

Podcasts drop on Fridays. Listen here, and subscribe for future episodes: Spotify / Apple / RSS:

Making ‘Chasing Time,’ the First Real Watch Documentary (w/ Adam Golden and Chris Gary)

Making ‘Chasing Time,’ the First Real Watch Documentary (w/ Adam Golden and Chris Gary)

Tony Traina
·
Oct 23
Listen now

PRESENTED BY THE ATLANTA WATCH SALON
A few enthusiasts enjoying the Atlanta Watch Salon with The Watch Society’s Giancarlo Rosselli.

“Days like these give meaning to the countless hours of work and dedication within the walls of our manufacture.”—Ewa Lederer

On October 10–11, 30 watch brands gathered for the inaugural Atlanta Watch Salon. I asked Mireille and Giancarlo Rosselli, the founders of The Watch Society, what made it different from other shows. They told me:

“The most remarkable part of the Atlanta Watch Salon was seeing watchmakers admire one another’s work, loupe in hand, asking questions and talking shop. They weren’t there to exhibit; they were there to immerse themselves in the world they help create. Collectors and watchmakers sat side by side, not standing across from one another with a table as a barrier. One of the world’s most celebrated watchmakers said that days like these give meaning to the countless hours within the four walls of his manufacture. Guests stayed for 6 hours, engaged in conversations, panels, and genuinely connecting. No noise, no race to go viral. Just knowledge and a shared appreciation for watches.”

The Atlanta Watch Show is next, January 22–24, 2027. Expect more energy and fun, without losing the intimacy that matters.

More to come! Stay tuned to Atlanta Watch Salon for more:

Follow ATL Watch Salon


The Roundup

What happens when a microbrand can’t get its watch made; a familiar (and favorite) vintage Vacheron chronograph gets its cover shot; are high-end brands and indies so different?

🌎 What happens when a microbrand can’t get its watch made.

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