The Countdown: Designer, Architect, Self-Taught Watchmaker
“There was a certain arrogance in seeing how watches were made and wanting to make something myself.”
Happy Monday to those who celebrate. Heads up, DHL says it’s suspending shipments over $800 to the U.S. In today’s newsletter:
The Countdown returns with watchmaker and designer Matthew Zinski
A collector’s guide to ‘90s Breguet
Patek Philippe co-stars in John Hamm’s new show
Today, The Countdown is back. It’s a look inside the mind of a collector that follows a simple 3-2-1 format:
3 watches that define their taste
2 objects they love beyond watches
1 piece of advice
The Unpolished archive is online and the best way to explore old newsletters.
The Countdown: Matthew Zinski
Seattle-based Matthew Zinski is an architect, designer, self-taught watchmaker, and founder of Typsim. He started Typsim in 2019 after four years as a watchmaker. There’s obvious inspiration from the vintage watches he services, not only in design, but also in the functional elements: acrylic crystals, true gilt dials, chamfers, and lume that ages.
Matt blends his sensibility as a watchmaker, designer, and architect in everything he does. As a watchmaker, he’s quick with a perspective on all things watches—a few weeks ago, we discussed slight improvements Rolex made to its GMT-Master II caliber.
He brings this same POV to Typsim, a portmanteau of typical and similar, meant to invoke non-branded quality goods.
Dunand Minute Repeater Chronograph Pocket Watch
Before Typsim, Matt taught himself watchmaking. There are certain milestones in every watchmaker’s journey.
“This old Dunand pocket watch was given to me by the president of my local NAWCC chapter,” Matt said. He’d been a friend for a while, and as Matt began to stretch himself, this old Dunand minute repeater chronograph came as a gift.
Watchmakers work up from cheap clones to Swiss-made ETA movements to chronographs, and finally other complications. This was Matt’s first grand complication service. It came as a project, missing its hands and plenty of movement components.
“I remember taking it apart step by step, documenting every single screw I took out,” Matt said. He fabricated missing components the old-fashioned way, using a lathe.
Nowadays, Matt services everything from sports Rolex to vintage Patek Philippe, Omega, and ‘90s complications from brands like Gerald Genta.
Typsim 200M-C
About four years in, Matt began envisioning his own brand, drawing inspiration from his work with vintage sports watches.
“There was a certain arrogance in seeing how they were made and wanting to make something myself,” Matt said.
He admired the build of these watches from the 1950-70s. A couple of examples:
The mainplate, often made of German silver or brass. Many modern movements are rhodium-plated and don’t age the same way.
The large screws in vintage 15xx series Rolex calibers–similar to a pocket watch, and unlike what you see from many large manufacturers today.
This is what he wanted to impart in Typsim.
First came the Typsim 200M-C, for which Matt had a few requirements: chronometer certification, gilt dial, proprietary Super-LumiNova.
He tried to work with Swiss suppliers first, but found them often formulaic, wanting to churn out what they already know. So he turned to Hong Kong.
As a watchmaker, chronometer certification was also important. Since Swiss-based COSC only works with Swiss companies, Typsim turned to the Besçancon Observatory in France. Thanks to a quirk in logistics, Matt hand-delivered his first watches for testing.
He became the first U.S. company to achieve chronometer certification from Besçancon.
Typsim Architect
When Matt and I first spoke last fall, he was launching the TimeTraveler, featuring a dual-time mechanism he designed with watchmaker Zach Smith. It’s a clever modification to a Sellita movement that allows you to track two time zones, all crown-operated. It’s my favorite Typsim project, with another order window set to open later this year.
In the meantime, Typsim has released another watch connected to Matt’s profession: The Architect.
“If I were designing a mid-century modern watch alongside Dieter Rams or Max Bill, what would I design?” Matt says of its inspiration. It’s hard not to speak about this flavor of mid-century design in cliches, but the Typsim Architect is a bit more modern and playful than classics like the Junghans Max Bill.1 The stepped bezel also sets it apart, calling to mind some favorite mid-century references.
Matt says it’s the watch he designed as an architect, to wear as an architect. It has a clarity that many brands miss when they try to do Bauhaus.
And if one guy gets to call a watch The Architect, it’s Matt, who’s been practicing for 20+ years.
Alvin Lead Holder
“When I went to school, one of the first things we had to do was hand draft,” Matt said. To this day, he loves the ritual of beginning projects by hand drafting–buildings, watches, other designs. It’s more immediate, tactile, and every line must be intentional. It’s a way of having intuition guide a concept before technology refines it.
“I can’t even imagine writing with a No. 2 pencil. I can only use an Alvin Lead Holder.”
It’s an object that’s been at Matt’s side through his entire career as a designer.
Wedding Band
Wedding rings are already full of meaning, but Matt and his wife designed theirs with more in mind. Matt wanted a gold ring, while his wife wanted platinum. So, they inverted the materials of their rings–Matt’s is 22K rose gold with a platinum liner, his wife’s is inverted.
“We also insisted on 22K for its softness and expression of wear,” Matt said. “I love the way it’s worn over the years.” It’s especially cool because you can look at the liner of the other’s ring to see what yours once looked like.
“You make opportunity happen,” Matt said. “Success is a formula of luck and working hard—it’s not one or the other—but it doesn’t happen if you don’t push to make that opportunity. You have to put yourself out there. If you say yes to potential opportunities—that’s how you move forward in life and find unique experiences.”
For more on Typsim or Matt’s watch servicing, visit Typsim or follow @matthewzinski.
I was on A Blog To Watch’s podcast with Ariel Adams. Thanks to ABTW (s/o Jake) for having me on. It’s a pretty high-level conversation, but perhaps you’ll find it interesting:
Three Things To Know
Releases to Know. To mark its 4th anniversary, Furlan Marri is releasing the Red Hunter, with pre-orders open April 23–May 4 (maybe you’re getting lots of Instagram ads, too?). Hunter caseback, 36mm, black lacquer dial, automatic La Joux-Perret movement for $1,830. I was impressed by this watch in person–the new bracelet is also nice–probably the first Furlan Marri to really move me. Btw, last week’s newsletter for paid subscribers had a hint about what’s going on with Furlan Marri’s QP that was initially planned for release last year.
Naoya Hida announced its 2025 application window will be open from May 14-22, with a trunk show at Armoury New York from May 22-25. Unrelated, I recently mentioned the new blue lacquer Rolex Oyster Perpetual, and then came across this live video. Looks great.
A Collector’s Guide to Roth-era Breguet. A helpful reference guide to 1980s-90s Breguet, decoding references, characteristics, and other important things to know before jumping into neo-vintage Breguet. I still want a ref. 3130! (Tahoma Watches)
Patek Philippe, Richard Mille co-star in John Hamm’s new show. I just watched the first episode of John Hamm’s new Apple TV+ show, and towards the end there’s what amounts to a 15-second Patek Philippe Nautilus ad. More follow in later scenes. Like so many of these prestige shows, it focuses on the rich and their stuff, and watches are a big part of that. I was going to make a point about how this must be a commentary on the economy or inequality or our obsession with the rich, but then I was reminded The Great Gatsby just turned 100, so perhaps this has always been (NY Times).2
It’s Auction Season. Monaco Legend’s spring auction is this weekend (catalog here). The larger houses have their Geneva sales in early May. I won’t be attending this time around, but leave a comment/email if there are any ways you want auctions covered:
Get in touch:
tony@unpolishedwatches.com (use this email, replies to the newsletter often get lost)
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Just get rid of that Automatic at 6 o’clock!
Or, the 2020s are very much becoming the roaring 1920s?
Seattle heavy this week with Typsim and Tahoma Watches, loved it!
I have a “not quite” Daniel Roth era Breguet - a simple 5907 which I think started production right after he left. It still has a “DR” movement - it’s one of my favorite watches, wears very similar to the new 1815 from Lange, can be had for under 10000.