The Tale of Two Tudor Black Bay 58s: Gilt vs. Burgundy | Unpolished Index #1

A totally scientific, made-up way to review watches, starting with Tudor’s heritage-inspired diver. What’s changed and what matters.

Many watch reviews read like press releases. A spec sheet, some mealy-mouthed sentiments about size or color, perhaps a few thoughts on price and competition.

Still, the internet is flooded with ‘em. Here’s how Unpolished is doing reviews differently: The Unpolished Index.

It’s a 100-point scale across 10 categories: five for Collectibility, five for Daily wear.

I love reviews that give actual ratings—cars, albums, gadgets. It’s fun because it’s ridiculous: Faux-objectivity overlaid on something inherently subjective. Something to argue about. But the best rating systems challenge the reviewer (and the reader) to defend their perspective in a framework.

Here are the 10 factors of the Unpolished Index:

• Collectibility Score. Measuring appeal to collectors and enthusiasts.

  • 5 factors: Design, History, Horology, Market, Cool Factor

• Daily Score. Measuring quality, wearability, and practicality for everyday.

  • 5 factors: Features, Comfort, Quality, Versatility, Value

For the full explanation of this totally scientific, made-up Index:

Introducing: The Unpolished Index

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It’s a consistent 100-point scale, but the score will naturally reflect the reviewer’s own perspective. We can argue in the comments. It’s loosely inspired by car reviewer Doug DeMuro’s DougScore. As we do more reviews, an Unpolished Index database will be available to paid subscribers.

It’s not a definitive, unbiased ranking—there’s no such thing. But the Index offers a repeatable way to evaluate watches, and for readers to understand what went into a review. Future reviews will also include video (YouTube coming soon!).

Let’s get to the first review(s)—

No chatter of “39%” in this newsletter, but I enjoyed this short Economist vid. The online Unpolished archive is the best way to find old newsletters.

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The Tale of Two Tudor Black Bay 58s

The new Black Bay 58 Burgundy vs. the original 58 ‘Gilt.’

Ah, the Tudor Black Bay 58. I must’ve just graduated law school when I bought mine. It was the summer of 2018 and Drake’s “In My Feelings” was the song of the summer. I almost immediately sold my Submariner 76100 “Lollipop” because why bother?

Fast-forward to 2025, and I’ve owned, lol, four different Black Bay 58s.¹

Like “In My Feelings,” the Black Bay 58 was a certified hit as soon as it dropped. Gen pop loved it, and enthusiasts went on and on about heritage and value.

Unlike Drake, people still love the BB58 seven years later. Go to any watch event anywhere and you’ll trip over a bespeckled blogger wearing a 58 (sorry lil guy, didn’t see ya there!).

It shrunk down the original Black Bay so that if you were one of those little bloggers, too busy type-typing away for a few wrist curls, you could still wear the spiritual successor to the Tudor Sub. It’s hard to remember how big a deal a heritage-inspired, 39 x 11.9mm diver from the House of Hans was in 2018 AD.

By now, you know the Black Bay 58: 200 meters of water resistance, rotating aluminum bezel with that slightly more noticeable “click” when you get it back to 12 o’clock, polished bevels, Tudor/Kenissi movement, and so on.

The Black Bay 58 Burgundy updates: Subtle but significant

While the 5-link bracelet is the most notable update, there are other changes to the BB58 2.0: The knurled crown and toothier bezel, in addition to a slightly refined case profile.

Let’s zoom in on the updates to this year’s Black Bay 58 Burgundy, because it really is the Black Bay 58 2.0—more than just a color update or slapping on some additional certifications. Key updates:

• METAS-certified movement (also uses the larger MT5400 vs. MT5402)

• 0.2mm thinner (11.9 vs. 11.7mm), slightly refined case profile with about the same 47.5mm lug-to-lug

• 5-link bracelet option

• T-fit clasp

• Knurled crown

• Toothier bezel

• Lollipop seconds hand

These are all improvements. The crown and bezel lean more into Tudor the tool watch—easier to operate and closer to old Tudor Subs. A discordant contrast to that shiny red bezel and sunburst dial.

Polished bevels.

At first, the glittery burgundy distracts from these updates. When I saw the new Black Bay 58, I demanded from Tudor: Where is my matte dial, my subdued tool watch, and why, why so shiny?

A few years ago, when you, Tudor, swapped the lovely lacquer Black Bay 36 for a sunburst dial, changing it from an Explorer alternative to a budget Datejust, I said nothing. But how dare you come after our precious Black Bay 58?

Rolex and TAG Heuer and whoever else can make shiny watches with sunburst dials, but not you. It felt like some top-down corporate strategy to position the Black Bay 58 as an elevated, fashion-forward diver, and the Pelagos as the One True Tool Watch.

The other perspective

I wanted the other perspective on the new Black Bay 58 Burgundy, so I reached out to my buddy Giancarlo, one-third of That Watch Podcast. He’s got somewhere between 7-10 Tudors depending on the week, and sprinted to his local AD to get a 58 Burgundy. Giancarlo, I pleaded, what gives?

Passionate as Martin Luther, he mashed out his Four Theses on why he loves the Burgundy:

1. Burgundy: “I used to own a Hulk and adored the sunburst green dial. This doesn’t have the same level of detail, but it’s a stunner.” Okay then!

2. History: Equally important is the significance of a burgundy-colored Tudor diver, a nod to a ‘90s Tudor Sub prototype. “It’s an indicator of Tudor being in rude health [a British phrase, I’m told] that they can take a bold step like that.”

3. Upgrades: “Low key, but they’re real.”—agreed.

4. BB58 2.0: Giancarlo said he’s glad they didn’t just update the OG Gilt 58 and went for something different.

“Is it absolutely perfect? No, but I think it’s very close,” Giancarlo texted me from vacation in Menorca.

Solid points, some even bringing me over to the bright (burgundy) side. But the original 58 was a moment. The 2010s were the era of hipsters, heritage, vintage, specifically vintage Rolex. Enthusiast culture went mainstream, and nowhere was that more clear than with the release of the original Black Bay 58.

Now, hardly a day goes by that I don’t see a Black Bay 58 walking around Chicago. And I’m always more likely to say something to a Black Bay wearer than a Sub guy.

Notes on nostalgia

As you can see, the new 5-link bracelet fits just fine on the original Black Bay 58. It’s a great look, and when Tudor lets us buy a standalone bracelet, I’ll jump on it.

Then, I realized something: Only seven years on, I already have nostalgia. Not only for the release of that watch, but that moment. It was 2018, and times were simple. Peak vintage Rolex. TikTok and Instagram Reels were two long years away, those Drake songs still slapped, and a Nautilus 5711 was $40k on a good day.

I’m surprised that a seven-year-old watch already has me all misty-eyed, but that’s the power of watches—transporting us to moments in life, in time.

But nostalgia is a lens, and sometimes a dishonest one. It can also be a pair of blinders.

Meanwhile, Tudor has improved and evolved its flagship Black Bay 58. It’s slightly more expensive and certainly less versatile, but that’s on purpose.

It also comes at a different time: A heritage-inspired, 39mm diver is less novel in 2025. And the 58 Burgundy is a more modern, elevated, luxury watch, or at least meets a certain modern perception of luxury—shiny, bright, colorful.² The Black Bay 58 Gilt is almost boring by comparison.

But sometimes, perfection is a little boring.

Let’s get to the Unpolished Index—we’ll focus on the 58 Burgundy, but provide ratings for both at the end for some context.

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Daily Score: Black Bay 58 Burgundy

Subtle but significant improvements for a watch that’s supposed to be less versatile.

It looks like Tudor slightly fattened up the bezel font, which I like.

1. Features (8/10). The Black Bay 58 Burgundy is objectively upgraded. METAS (a new certification, not exactly a new movement), updated crown and bezel. But most important is the 5-link bracelet and T-fit clasp. In winter, I struggle to get my 58 just right.

2. Comfort (8/10). The Burgundy wears essentially the same as the original. It’s imperceptibly thinner and the case is more curved, but hardly noticeable on wrist. Both the original and the Burgundy get high marks here.

3. Quality (9/10). Where Tudor and Rolex always separate themselves. Mass-produced excellence. Sharp, polished bevels. The excellence of Rolex, without being so damn showy about it.

4. Versatility (7/10). A rich, loud, red dive watch is simply more of a statement and less everyday.

5. Value (7/10). All those updates come at a price. When Tudor released the original Black Bay 58 (originally $3,575, now $4,300), I might’ve argued that, dollar-for-dollar, it was the best Swiss watch around. I probably wouldn’t say the same about the 58 Burgundy ($4,725 on five-link). The real value might come on the secondary market: You can snag a pre-owned 58 Gilt for $2,500 all day long.

Collectibility Score

Context matters. Modern Tudor watches aren’t supposed to be collectible, but the 58 Burgundy lands softer than the original.

1. Design (7/10). Don’t mess with what works. Tudor kept the bones of the 58 mostly the same. The Burgundy is a bold swing. To me, it lacks some of the restraint and balance of the original.

2. History (7/10). While calling back to history feels more overdone than in 2018, Tudor still gets points for its wink to a ‘90s prototype Sub.

3. Horology (7/10). METAS adds a meaningful technical step forward for Tudor—some of the best-performing movements you’ll find at the price.

4. Market (4/10). Almost no modern Tudor is hard to find, and while the Burgundy saw some buzz at release, it hasn’t been as sustained as the original.

5. Cool Factor (5/10). If the BB58 line has lost some of its edge, that’s only because of its success. Colors are proliferating across Tudor’s catalog—perhaps the first few have more Cool Factor.

The Unpolished Index: Black Bay 58 Burgundy

Here’s the Unpolished Index for the Black Bay 58 Burgundy and the original Black Bay 58 Gilt:

Modern Tudor watches are supposed to be high-quality watches for everyday use, and that’s where the Black Bay 58 shines—both the Burgundy and Gilt have a Daily Score of ~4/5. Who cares about collectibility? The 58 Burgundy wears as well as the original, even if I’d find myself wearing it less. It’s a strong sequel, but the original Black Bay 58 was lightning in a bottle, even if I say that looking through nostalgia-tinted glasses.

1. That original Gilt, the Blue (brief), 925 Silver (briefer), and now the “Rowing Blazers” 58.

2. A perception perhaps shaped more by Rolex than any other brand.