The Steel Lange That Was Never for Sale | Ref. 01
A new Sunday series on watches mostly forgotten to history.
Free newsletter today. I’m trying something new this weekend: “The Ref.” A short, weekly story about a sometimes-forgotten watch or moment in history worth knowing. Sunday morning feels like the perfect time to step away from the feed, if only for a few blissfully naive minutes, to remember the watches that were. Ref. 01 is about a steel Lange from the brand’s early days that was never for sale.
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Back in 1998, A Lange & Söhne was basically a startup. It made beautiful watches in the small town of Glashütte, Germany, but was still a disruptor to the well-established Swiss watchmakers.
Lange launched in 1994 with a lineup of fancy watches in precious-metal cases. Even 32 years later, it has just the one serially-produced steel watch, the Odysseus. One retailer, Pisa Orologeria, convinced Günter Blumlein to produce a small run of steel Lange 1s (~20), but that’s about it.1 Then, as now, Italian dealers can be quite charming and persuasive.
Except for one little-known watch: Reference 206.S26.
As a young company, Lange executed everything to the highest degree. If someone brought their nice new Lange 1 or Pour Le Merite in for service, Lange didn’t want them walking around with something else on their wrist—what if it was Swiss?
The Lange 1815 (ref. 206.S26) was a service watch or loaner for clients while their actual Lange was being serviced. It’s similar to the old Hublot “Not for Sale” or LIP “Montre Apres Ventes” service watches.
But since this was Lange, it was executed to the same high level of its standard watches: inside is a caliber L941.1, with the same German silver three-quarter plate and hand-engraved balance cock, also engraved “service” below the serial. But it features a 36mm stainless steel case and a black dial with white numerals. A few years later, Lange introduced the white-gold 1815 (ref. 206.029), which had a similar dial, but the service watch was like nothing else at the time.
I’ve seen estimates of 100-150 service watches, though no one really knows. There’s practically no evidence of them anywhere.
The service-watch program ran for just a few years, beginning in 1998—Langepedia says the program lasted just two years. Supposedly, it ended partly because clients were prone to “losing” their service watches and offering to pay for them. I suffer from a good bit of Catholic guilt from 16+ years of Papal education, but a steel 1815 (in 36mm!!) is the type of watch that’s worth a confession.
In 2019, Sotheby’s was set to offer a steel 1815 service watch at auction, but it was removed from the sale. Perhaps Lange acquired it, or arrangements were otherwise made? SJX covered it at the time, and it’s the only place I can find public photos of any service 1815.
These watches were technically loaners, owned by Lange, and weren’t supposed to be kept, so Lange may have a claim to the property. Oh, and if you do have to send it on to service for Lange? There’s a good chance you’ll never get it back.
But a steel 36mm Lange with a black dial? Basically a dream watch for me.
Today, it’s said that some Lange employees still wear steel watches around the manufacturer for testing purposes.
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P.S. Geneva auctions are still happening, but here are a few insane results from Phillips:
There’s also a single steel Homage to Walter Lange and Double Split.
I lost a limited edition book which I borrowed from the library before. I am sure it is even easier to misplace a service watch. ;p
Really cool Lange story! What a great idea in concept (loaner luxury watches borrowed during service) Thanks for sharing.